Long Cold Winter

It's been a long, cold winter with not much action. Big Wave got a Big Gut during Hibernation--hahahahaha. So Big Gut, I mean Big Wave took out the longboard and had some fun. Now it's time to get in Big Wave Season Shape :)

Kook De Ville

Three slow-motion-kook rides

Finally Caught One

Just as the title says...I finally caught one. I wasn't out too long. Once Icicles starting forming on my hoody, I decided it was time to go. One guy gave me props on this ride. Believe me it's not that good, but it was nice to finally catch a wave.

Even Though

Even though I am semi-retired, I had to clean up my board. Usually I do this in the Fall to prepare for the Winter season. The wax on my board was straight up NASTY. So I cleaned up the board and got a fresh wax job. Now I'm ready for tomorrow's action at Higgins. Hopefully I can do something. Should have a cam for tomorrow's session.

Fresh Wax Smells Dope!!!!

Semi-Retired

So the last 3 times out my hands have been freezing. You got no footage because I was simply that bad. Today I went and got some new mittens.

We hit the Ube but couldn't get out. The waves were 1200 kilojoules. So we went to the ladies tees at 11th (discouraging-to say the least). To make matters worse, I didn't catch one wave and I am simply not having fun out there anymore so I am SEMI-RETIRED, if not permanently retired.

If that's not bad enough I see a guy on the beach with a metal detector pulling stuff up. I think he snatched my go-pro.

Silver lining...my hands were warm.

Juno

These are the waves during Juno. We couldn't get to the spot where they were really pumping (Camp Ellis) because they had the street blocked off. This is a few roads down.

Watch The Language

Dropped a couple of F bombs (sorry). The Ube was crowded. 25 surfers and 1 sup'er. The sup'er, Glenn, killed it. Big Wave bit the big one. As usual, I let a lot of good ones go by and went for all the junk.

Str8 up Big Wave Sucks!!!