Juno

These are the waves during Juno. We couldn't get to the spot where they were really pumping (Camp Ellis) because they had the street blocked off. This is a few roads down.

Watch The Language

Dropped a couple of F bombs (sorry). The Ube was crowded. 25 surfers and 1 sup'er. The sup'er, Glenn, killed it. Big Wave bit the big one. As usual, I let a lot of good ones go by and went for all the junk.

Str8 up Big Wave Sucks!!!

2Kooks

He said he didn't do it...That's Glenn's take on the Brady/Belichick Deflategate Scandal. I've given him a thousand counters, but he says..."They say they didn't do it." Naïve. I once knew a girl named, Naïvena. So there you go.

Backup Plan

Search & Rescue Team

Had the Search and Rescue Team out yesterday looking for my camera--No Dice. So I borrowed Glenn's cam today. Wouldn't you know it...it wasn't charged. Anyway...I worked a right-hand wave. When I was done and paddling back out a short boarder said to me..."That was a sick wave you had." That was way cool. That has never happened to me before so of course I was pumped!

Glenn's Cam (not charged)

Lost At Sea

"So I made a big mistake"
Went out for the first time in 2015 with the head-mount cam. The head mount has no back up safety features. Well if it did...I eliminated it. Went for a backside wave and pearled. While pearling I reached for the cam...all was good...until I surfaced and the cam was gone. I'm hoping, maybe at low-tide I might find it, but doubt it. You've heard of finding a needle in a haystack...well this is much worse!