Way Cool

A little drizze turned into a massive downpour. Then came the thunder boomers followed by lightning. I asked the dude next to me if it was safe to be out there and he said, "rubber is an insulator." True to form, I listen to and follow bad logic. The water was like rolling hills that just kept coming and coming.

I had to stall out of the only decent ride I had because another guy caught it much deeper.
On another attempt, my cord was all caught up and I did a belly flop right on my board--it was actually pretty funny. While waiting to catch my final wave, I tried to do Sukhasana on my board--no dice.

I now listen to Classical music to and fro. It is very peaceful and good for reflection.

Dedication

First I met the wedding party at the beach. The girls are thrilled to be on the blog. Then it was time to hit the surf. I have a pattern forming where I do alright in the beginning, pretty awful after that, then I suck it up and catch a good one in. I think I am due for a few more lessons.

When I was walking to the surfmobile some kid rolls in riding a BMX type bike with one hand and holding his surfboard with the other. I told him, "that's dedication." I wish I had my cam 'cause it was definitely blog worthy. Driving home, I see the wedding party outside the chapel.

Classic Pose

"Don't let me hear you say life's taking you nowhere, angel...
Look at that sky, life's begun
Nights are warm and the days are young"

Life has been taking me to Beach Ave, Shore Rd, Ocean Ave, Ocean Blvd, Beach St...
Nights are warm and the days are young!!!

Most memorable wave of the day was when my hand slipped off the rail during the pop up and my face smacked the board.

Brutal

I listened to Johann Sebastian Bach's Concerto No. 2 on on the way out to set the mood and feel the calmness. What do they say about the best laid plans? I caught a dozen or so waves but did nothing special. I got rocked by the waves. You can only turtle so much. I was taking waves in the face. My board got thrashed. At one point, I thought my leash snapped. On the way home, I listened to some kick a** Rock 'n Roll to truly appreciate the beating I took.

Haze

I went to three spots today. They all had good waves but zero visibility. Hopefully things will clear up for an afternoon or evening session.

Is that even possible?

Today someone told me that I was "too relaxed". I don't know if that is even possible. If it is, I guess it would be when I am lying on the beach catching rays in Savasana. That's pretty relaxing.

Back to Work

"This ain't no party, this ain't no disco, this ain't no foolin' around..." that was this past weekend. Today, it was back to work. Hit Higggins and it was nice to get back out there after the Holiday Weekend. There was only one other guy out there with me--it was really cool. He stayed at one side and I was at the other. I could go after and catch whatever I wanted. I was hitting drops until they turned into white water. Ideally, I would wanna turn and trim the wave. I had some good practice working on turns and it was fun out there today.