Near Death

Chilling on the beach (watching Glenn SUP) I hear this thud right next to me. A seagull dropped a clam within five feet of me. I think he was aiming for me. Great, now I'm gonna have to start wearing a hardhat to the beach.

PS Wish I had some surfing news.

Recession/Regression

Went to Higgins tonight. There was a good crowd. I'm basically riding the white wash 'cause I can't do much else. It's like starting over. Fact of the matter is I gotta drop like 50lbs--straight up.

Thursday 'spose to be some sick overhead waves. Now we know that never happens, but one can hope. I'm getting the green board ready.

Holding Court

Big Wave in the House. As I surfed in (around) Barry...he said..."Woah Dave, really filling out that wetsuit."  Ain't that the truth.  Anyway...next wave I went right in the lion's den. A well known wave hog was going for a wave (and so was I). I had the right of way and there was no way I was backing down. They were going right and I was going left. The wave was a left so I held my ground.

Anyway, I decided...what have I been thinking....all I wanna do is surf. Didn't I already know that? What's wrong with me...

Too Weak

Phew. Just didn't have the paddling power for the afternoon session. Had trouble standing up. Just out of surfing shape. I think if you go back to the early days you'll see I had the same problem when surfing in the morning and afternoon.  Gotta get back in surfing shape.

Coming out of the water a guy asks, "did you used to play for the Orioles?" I said, "How'd you know?" and he told me the girls told him.

Shake, Rattle & Roll

I was a bit shaky out there. First attempt, I face planted right into the wave.  Second attempt..I was a little rattled and still shaky. Third attempt--Rock n' Roll Baby!

Yesterday was the day to be out (Post Sandy) but  today was good. They say it will be good this afternoon as well.  Hopefully I make it out there.

Annual Excursion

I will be making my annual excursion to Ball-Z South tomorrow...and then rip it up in Baltimore. Other than that, there is not much to report on. I will not be bringing my laptop as Mina has infected my computer with a virus. You thought I was bad at contracting viruses--the Serbians are much worse.

But how can anyone be upset with a smile like that?

Time To Catch Up

Although I've probably lost all viewers....

The season ended and we went to New Orleans. Woohoo!!! Always a good time in New Orleans. I returned with a cold and a bum elbow.  Too Bad. There were some killer waves upon my return, but I was in rough shape (to say the least).

I hope to get out surfing if the waves cooperate. I'm starting to realize I do everything for two years and then I peter out. Bowling--2 years, Yoga--2 years, Surfing--2 years. I hope to keep surfing up and get back into yoga. I will keep you posted.