Gone, I'm outta here!

After work, I shot down to Higgins. Out on the beach was a guy playing the bagpipes--way cool. There was about twelve of us in the water, waist to chest high waves. A few so so rides and then I caught my best ride ever. I rode it all the way to shore and....I picked up my board and walked right over to my car. Boom, I'm gone. It is now 45 minutes later and I'm still riding the high!

Slap in the face

Tonight there are the most beautiful waves I have ever seen in Old Orchard. They are knee to waist high and holding up perfectly. The wind conditions are just right. I want to go out so badly...It is gut-wrenching. Unfortunately, I have a prior commitment. Oh, this is so painful. Obviously, I need to get my priorities in order.

Miss You

I think my mom would be stoked that I am a surfer, well maybe not. Either way, I wouldn't be one without her. It is her inspiration that brought me to Hawai'i. Thank you mom.
Happy Birthday!

Yeah!!!

"I watch these guys surf and you know what? It just makes you feel good. He'll, yes! I mean, it's just uplifting to watch these guys ride a wave. When you think about that, how can that be? Well, that's because it's stimulating something really deep inside you, I mean, it's not just a mental stimulation or even a physical stimulation like sex, but something a little deeper. It's some kind of spiritual stimulation. And that's what's so goddamn cool about it."

Gerry Lopez
June 11, 2009

Decisions descisions

Well maybe life is all about decisions as well. Yoga or surf? Today, when I was getting ready to go to yoga, I noticed seven surfers in the water. It didn't look like much action-- not even ankle bitters but I saw a few people get up. In my mind, there was no decision to be made. I suited up and hit my home surf. As I walked in the water, I was surrounded by seaweed--no worries. I paddled out and waited and waited... When all was said and done, I caught one ride and it was pretty cool because I had to maneuver and adjust on my board to keep it rolling. How cool is it that I can wake up, walk downstairs and surf! The decision had already been made, I will catch a make up Yoga class.

Perfect Days

"In this crowded world the surfer can still seek and find the perfect day, the perfect wave, and be alone with the surf and his thoughts..."
John Stevenson
January 1960, The Surfer

Maverick

Balance is the key to, probably life, but definitely to surfing. I was the only one out there today thus the title--not to be confused with the famous surf break. There were some good sets and I began to realize that there is plenty of time between waves even though it looks like they are real close together. Since I was alone, I stayed primarily on the inside and rode white water. I did venture out, however, and caught two drops.

Back to balance. I wiped out a lot because I do not have full balance with my board yet, we still need to become better acquainted although this is easier said than done because there is too much lull between surfable days. I need to work hard on my tree and eagle pose (not today) as I think this will help a great deal.

On my way home, I hit the surf shop and picked up a loud pair of boardshorts.