US Open: There's Nothing Like It

Big Wave surfed Huntington. Still the most powerful wave I've hit. Strike that--Trestles was the most powerful. One wave, I tried to turtle and the wave ripped my board from my hands and shot me all the way into shore. Huntington was a close second.

New Wheels

Actually they're old wheels. This is what I'm rollin' on til I pick up the new surfmobile tomorrow (also old wheels).

Desperation Sets In

There were about 10 people out this morning. Ah not much, but hey...I hit it and glad I did. Caught some really nice ones today.

Check this out. My boy Fred went hiking in the Pyrenees. Look at this picture he sends me. Can't argue with that logic.

Best Summer Ever

You've heard of the best summer ever? Well this has been the worst summer ever. Absolutely no waves.

"things are gonna change, I can feel it."

Love Potion Number 9

"I held my nose, I closed my eyes, I took a drink." For those of you who where privy to today's trivia question, the answer is 9.

People always ask, "Hey Big Wave what do you do for work?" They are blown away when I tell 'em I surf. Caught some waves tonite so that was good.

Busted my third pair of slippahs on Wednesday so I ordered two pairs of Locals. Shoulda got these from the get go. DaKine, Da Original Slippah!!!

Too Many People

Nice little waves...plus it's just way too hot so I decided to go out. Just in boardshorts 'cause, well--it's just too hot. Only problem is there are way too many people out there. Didn't even pop up once. I'm a responsible surfer you know.

They should have a section (of the 7 mile beach) marked off for surfers. I may bring this up before the Town Council. I know a selectman who could sponsor the bill and I think I could get Surfriders to back me on this. Everywhere I've been has a section for surfers. Even lame-o Scarborough. Some spots in California don't even allow swimmers.

Beachin' It

Decided to beach it today. "Well, what can a poor boy do, except to sing for a rock n roll band."
Looks like the seagull had the same idea as me.

Check out my spread. I usually have a good spot wherever I go.

I'm always amazed watching people on the beach. You would think it's their last meal. They chow down huge hoagies, subs, chips...you name it. They ain't goin hungry today.

Was talkin to my dad a few days ago and told him to get ready for Hurricane Season at Hatteras. Then I saw a 6 year-old girl was attacked by a shark yesterday on the shores of Ocracoke Island. May have to reconsider hitting the OBX.

All Wet

One of my neighbors (who shall remain nameless) has been hounding me over the past few days, telling me that I have lost the desire to surf. So I went out today. Well that theory is all wet. I haven't lost the desire. There are simply no waves (a key component to surfing).

I took an online personality test to see what type of animal I would be. Answer...Hermit Crab. I can deal with that.

Ancient Hawaiian Surf Prayer

Ina a 'ohe nalu, a laila aku i kai, penei e hea ai :
(If there is no surf, invoke sea work in the following manner) :

"Ku mai! Ku mai! Ka nalu nui mai Kahiki mai,

(arise, arise you great surfs from Kahiki)

Alo po i pu! Ku mai ka pohuehue,
(the powerful curling waves. Arise with the pohuehue)

Hu! Kai ko'o Loa.”
(Well up long raging surf.)

If all else fails you can always offer a sacrifice to the surf gods by burning your board on the beach.

Hillbilly Central

Rocked out NASCAR today. Mad Props to Mark Francoeur, who hooked us up better than last year (if that's even possible). Rollin' VIP! Funny thing in auto racing, the higher the seats, the better. This way you can see the whole track. We were in Turn 4 (Primo). We went to Hillybilly Central and left them bewildered.

Pow-Wow

Hit a Pow-Wow today. It was quite an experience--dancing, drumming, music, storytelling...
After the Pow-Wow there was a concert by Grammy Award Nominee & Winner, Joseph Firecrow. This guy was amazing.

Also picked up a mean rattle!!!

Nice...So Nice

Ah, the water is so nice. Next time out will probably be in boardshorts. That only happened once last year. Caught a bunch of waves, but had two really nice ones. It's fun when you have to turn to continue rolling down the wave. On my last ride I was cruising in and there were 3 young girls in the water. I was headed straight toward them. All I could see was the whites of their eyes (huge). I nonchalantly cut to the left. They let out a huge sigh of relief and then started giggling--as young girls do.

Late Arrival

Had my sickest ride yet. It was like I was suspended in mid-air...flying. I was the only one out there to boot. There are a bunch of guys out there right now. Um....a little too late folks.

On my way in, a guy said to me, "you make it look so easy." Little does he know, I struggle for each and every wave.

Should be low tide again at 5:49. Let's hope for some more action.

It Was A Good Day

Any day there are waves it's a good day. Didn't look like much but I had to hit it. "I like 'em big and I like 'em small." I really need to figure out the kick out though 'cause the last few times out I've had to meander around little children in the water. At least I now have the confidence and ability to do that. When I end my ride, I am doing some funkcy stuff to make sure my board comes nowhere close to the kids--this is where the kick out would help a great deal.

I know the posts have been few and far between but so have the waves.
Peace!

Off The Shelf

Picked up this bad boy about 11 years ago as a decoration. Gotta like the Hawaiian Hibiscus. Saw a bunch of kids skimboarding so I decided to pull it off the shelf. All waxed up and ready to go. I had two young kids helping me out. I managed a few rides for maybe a millisecond. Had a sweet wipeout where I only landed one foot on the board and went flying.

Just waiting for the waves.

Sumthin' Outta Nuthin'

Too nice to just hang around today. I see about 7 people tryin to surf. I mean there are no waves. Maybe I'm just getting greedy. No there's really nuthin'. Worst case, I'll go out and paddle around. Well long story short...I made sumthin' outta nuthin'.

Crash

My computer crashed and there really hasn't been anything to report on. Since the surfmobile has departed there has been nothing in site. Last week I had strawberries and cream during the Wimbledon Finals. I have been watching Wimbledon since I was a little kid, but never had the traditional Wimbledon snack. I have to thank Rebecca for this experience.

Even if there had been waves, do you think I could compete with this doll I met on the 4th of July?

Given the absence of waves, I've decided to celebrate the 4th of July for the entire week--very patriotic on my part!!!