LWD

Little Wave Dave reporting. Man do I struggle out there. Little waves and still no luck. I caught one decent left and then a long, long wait.....I begin having self-doubt.

Finally, last wave of the day, I rock a right. Arlene, better than the one you saw. A lot of pain and agony for a glimpse, a tease...and now I wait for the next time out.

The Holiday 20 may not be helping me on the board, but it should provide insulation for the Lobster Dip tomorrow at High Noon.

Happy New Year's--Hopefully 2012 brings us better waves.

Goldie Locks

Missing The Goldie Locks!!!

And Don't Deny Me

Shortly after the morning session I see a guy shoot out the barrel. I give a hoot and throw a shaka even though he can't hear or see me. I'm stoked seeing this guy rock it. So I run a few errands and then back out.

All I'm thinking is "don't deny me"...."don't turn your back on me, I won't be ignored."  Well I wasn't ignored. I got thrashed again and again and was definitely denied. Two session, no rides....

"I get stupified."

Crushed

The wind was fierce last night. I thought my patio furniture would come flying through my window. So what does that have to do with surfing? Killer-Mean-Waves today!

The paddle out was brutal. Every time I turtled, my board was ripped out of my hands. First Attempt--Banzai! I went flying head first out front of my board. I felt the leash yank my leg and saw the board tombstone as I surfaced.

Alright, I'm up on a mean wave--making the drop when my front foot slides off the board. Wax on, wax off Danielson. Man, that woulda been a sweet one.  Next try, I get barrelled over the falls, held under and whack my head on the board. That's when I decided it was time to go. Gotta give respect to Mother Nature when she's spanking you.

You've heard of the Freshman 15? Well I don't think the the Holiday 20 helped matters any.

Naughty or Nice

I must have been naughty because I didn't get any waves. Boo Hoo.

Can You Imagine

Can you Imagine!!! Just hoping for some action tomorrow. That would make two Christmas Day sessions in a row. One can only hope. Santa, please bring me some waves tomorrow. I've been a very good boy. If you bring some waves, I will leave some milk and cookies.

Charlie Brown

My mom would be disappointed with my Charlie Brown Christmas tree, but you have to admit--that's one helluva background!

Christmas Card

There will be no Christmas Card this year. Just not in the works.  There are people who ride horses on the beach. I hooked up with these people and got their number. I told them what I was planning to do. I called last week and got a bogus number.

So If you can use your imagination, this would have been the card.

Riding a horse on the beach in my boardshorts, holding a surfboard while the horse did a "Hi Ho Silver."

Merry Christmas to all!

Ball-Z South

Given the current state of affairs, I should relocate to Ball-Z South. There's no waves here and there are no waves there. At least at Ball_Z South there are dolphins, warm weather and a lot of honeys!!! I like the honeys part. Plus, I could hit the Men's Room.

Seriously reconsidering location,

Coincedence

I think so. Since I got my new board there have been absolutely no waves. Yeah, I think it's the board.

All I Want For Christmas

Is some waves. Oh, and maybe a GoPro HD Hero.

Nice Slow Rollers

Waves were coming in nice and really pealing. Does that mean I could do something? No. I take solace in the fact that they say it takes two to three years to get good at surfing. I mean, I have to cling on to some sort of hope.

Matter of Fact

 It is said, "'In this world nothing can be said to be certain, except death and taxes." I would like to add that. I will be in a board meeting  on January 14, March 17, April 21, May 19, and June 9; there will be good waves on those days. This too, I am certain.

"Stranded...

Caught in the crossfire." Onshore to Cross winds. Not Good. It was a rough one out there today. Didn't do much.  Maybe caught 1 good ride.  Two rides of note, however... I don't know how I stayed up. I popped up, my board was going one way, my body the other. On both of these I remained on the board. I was all over the place (flailing) in a heavy wash and somehow rode 'em.

Interestingly enough, I flail during headstand in yoga as well. Maybe that's how I stayed up. Sheer will and survival.

OCB

Old Orchard Closeout Beach. That's what we had today--a bunch of closeouts. I brought both boards with me. Started on the 8'0. A little of this and a little of that. There was just no face to ride. Swapped out to the 9'4. Again a little of this and a little of that--no face to ride. I saw a lot of stuff jumping though. Then you start to worry.

Reports are looking good for tomorrow, but..........