Crushed

The wind was fierce last night. I thought my patio furniture would come flying through my window. So what does that have to do with surfing? Killer-Mean-Waves today!

The paddle out was brutal. Every time I turtled, my board was ripped out of my hands. First Attempt--Banzai! I went flying head first out front of my board. I felt the leash yank my leg and saw the board tombstone as I surfaced.

Alright, I'm up on a mean wave--making the drop when my front foot slides off the board. Wax on, wax off Danielson. Man, that woulda been a sweet one.  Next try, I get barrelled over the falls, held under and whack my head on the board. That's when I decided it was time to go. Gotta give respect to Mother Nature when she's spanking you.

You've heard of the Freshman 15? Well I don't think the the Holiday 20 helped matters any.