Monday, January 30, 2012

Good Day

I was out in boardshorts and slippahs So overall a good day.

Saturday, January 21, 2012

Each & Every Day

The waves look good at high tide. Unfortunately the waves always wane with the outgoing tide. Hopefully today will be different. One can only hope.

Saturday, January 14, 2012

Shoot To Thrill

Straight out of the chute. First attempt and I'm trimming down the line. There is no feeling like catching trim. That's why I wait out these long lulls. If you catch trim...WOW, Incredible.

I wrap up the day pro-style. I'm riding a wave and see it's about to closeout. In one smooth motion, I go from riding the wave, drop to my belly, and ride the wash into shore.

"And I can't get enough, and I can't get my thrill
'Cause I shoot to thrill, play it again"

Friday, January 13, 2012

Today Is Gonna Be The Day

There was a storm yesterday with rough seas. The day after is always good, right? I went to bed early--gearin' up for the surf.  After watching two guys (not catch a wave) for over an hour--I'm thinking...Today might not be the day. Bummer!

Actually it is pure torture. The waves are breaking so sweet today. Just no way in getting out to where they are breaking.

Saturday, January 7, 2012

Higgins Beach Diet

You've heard of the South Beach Diet. As you know I packed on a lot of lbs over the Holidays so today I started the Higgins Beach Diet. It consists of paddle, paddle, paddle and a little more paddle. I hope to get a healthy dose of this diet! Caught everything in sight today. Granted they were small fries.

You know girls who wear stuff like "juicy" and "pink" on their bums...well today I saw a girl whose wetsuit had a billabong symbol on her butt.

Think I'm gonna get some Uggs. Bet you didn't know that Uggs where made popular by surfers (and some accounts claim surfers invented them)--to keep their feet warm after the surf. My toes were freezing the whole way home. The Presidential doesn't have the best heating system.

Sleeping Village

"Red sun rising in the sky,
Sleeping village, cockerels cry,
Soft breeze blowing in the trees,
Peace of mind, feel at ease"

Thursday, January 5, 2012

Armed & Ready

Gotta give credit to my video guy. He was ready to go...but you know the story....no waves.

I've said it before and I'll say it again...I am seriously considering going snowboarding and hitting the half-pipe. I tried it once in '99--an abysmal attempt. I'm figuring it will help me to work the rails (edges in boarding). Plus I wanna hit some Big Air!

Sunday, January 1, 2012

Take The Plunge


First day of the New Year and I'm wearing boardshorts in the water. Not surfing, but the Annual Lobster Dip. This is me and Shawn. We went in 3 times--'Triple Dippers'. My brother was a Chicken Dipper (Oh, Dave it's too cold). Actually it was pretty warm this year.