Friday I went to the hospital. I was in excruciating pain!!! I guess I have a kidney stone. Laid up all day in bed on percocet. I once passed a kidney stone in my 20's...believe me when I tell you I fear going to the bathroom.
In true surfer fashion--Big Wave asked the doctor if he can go surfing once he passes the stone (in anticipation of good wave's on Saturday).
I woke up this morning to see over 20 people in the water with killer waves. Even though I haven't passed the stone, I couldn't let this opportunity pass me by. I rocked my best wave yet. A left. I was working the wave. Top turns, and bottom turns--it was great!
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