Just You Wait

I rode a sweet wave in my dreams. I was kicking it right, the wave froze, I turned left, and the wave thawed out. Anyway back to the business at hand.  I've decided no more bad sessions. With that being said, I was struggling. Caught a nice left and my leash got swamped with sea weed. Reminded me of the kelp at Topanga.

Was missing everything. There were some x-country skiers taking pictures. Alright...I'll give you a pic. Caught this right. Did a massive sweeping bottom turn. I was scootched down way low, my back hand was dragging in the wave, and I was rocking it. I even did a little kick out. So that was my day in a nut shell.

Nice Pants

So this guy (out of the blue) says, "nice pants." Well at least that's what I think he said. I'm lookin' at my pants like I have a hole or somethin. I say, "thanks." I'm still perplexed until finally I realize he said, "nice vans!"

Ice Cube says, "it was a nice day"...well it was an awful day. I had some bad influences workin' on me this morning.

Here we go again...Look what I have to contend with to hit the beach. No wonder I had a bad session.

Burnt Toast

When people come by (for the first time) they often ask, "Big Wave, you play the guitar?" And I always reply, "no, I own a guitar." Well I also own two surfboards and that's about it. Had a pathetic afternoon session. Went for one wave and it took me an hour to pop up. Did I say pathetic?

I do however play a mean didgeridoo

Sometimes You Dont

Hit the Nut again today. Been waiting all week for the waves to clean up. Pulled out the 8'0. I can barely sit on the thing let alone stand on it. Finally caught a bomb. Made the drop and starting doing a sweeping bottom turn...then I don't know what happened... I bit it hard. Going for another one, I got tossed, held under, came up for air and another crashed right on me. I may have wet my wetsuit--not sure. That was it...one and done. Gotta rest up for the afternoon session

Sometimes You Feel Like A Nut

Hit Walnut Street today. 1st time there. Mean waves, but just didn't have it. Once I fell and whacked my board twice--first my body then my head--kaboom. Got thrashed and held under. Missed two I shoulda hit. Like I said, just didn't have it. I caught one and left. Always leave on a high note.

(Pic is out front of the Serbian clan's second summer home)

A Lot Of Commotion...

in the heart of the lineup. I was paddling out and this guy was up and riding. He was coming from my right, headed straight for me. I ducked behind him in the whitewash. He gave me mad props when he came back out.

I'm up and heading left. I'm about to take out this guy who is dropping in on me. I holler whoa whoa whoa to no avail. I grab my rail and pull up over the wave. I still think my board whacked him in the head, but I guess not.

Other than that I had some pretty dope rides.

Getting Lazy...

just like my viewers. I haven't seen a comment in forever (except for Glenn's). I miss your input, but that's okay because I write for Big Wave....

Gentle Giants out there today. The paddle out was exhausting but worth it. I caught two nice lefts and one nice right where I outran the section.  The right is supposed to be easier for me being regular foot, but it isn't due to my stink bug stance. Caught a nice right though.

Here's my board. I don't even take it out of the bag anymore when I return home. As you can see I am getting lazy just like my viewers.

I'll Be Right Back

Yeah Right. So we were out bright and early. Well maybe not that early. Waves were nice but not very powerful. After a while, Glenn says, I'll be right back. Anyway...5 ridess later I start seeing some flashes, stuff bobbing, jumping...probably a duck, but I got spooked so I was gone.

They say he who travels alone travels far