Hit the Nut again today. Been waiting all week for the waves to clean up. Pulled out the 8'0. I can barely sit on the thing let alone stand on it. Finally caught a bomb. Made the drop and starting doing a sweeping bottom turn...then I don't know what happened... I bit it hard. Going for another one, I got tossed, held under, came up for air and another crashed right on me. I may have wet my wetsuit--not sure. That was it...one and done. Gotta rest up for the afternoon session
"Don't cut the hair for a year" is BWD's advice. I was almost considering cutting the board in half and quitting until my last time out in which I finally trimmed some baby beach waves. Now I can't quit or cut the hair.... Bring that low entry rocker out again!!!!
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