Day Two

Hit it again yesterday. Caught a nice one out of the gate--actually did a bottom turn and dragged my hand on the wave. Unfortunately, I couldn't turn it back down to really rock the wave.   Two days ago, I struggled putting on my wetsuit (it's been so long), I was sweating bullets before I even left my house.

Yesterday the changing process was much smoother. After the session I had a terrible rash on my neck. I guess I should've worn my rash guard. They call it a rash guard for a reason.