Dazed & Confused

I've devoted the last year to surfing, and what for? I can't even pop-up right now, let alone catch some nice little knee-high waves. Every time I try, I just fling my board out from under me. Presently, I'm catching 1% (if that) of the waves I'm goin' for. Very discouraging. And to think I was considering picking up a funboard today.

I heard from Hawaii..."no opportunities available right now". I was gonna look for a flexible job that would accommodate surfing...Looks like it may be time to get back to the real world. No, who am I kidding...just can't wait for things to turn around (surfing wise).

Some Days Are Better Than Others

I did a tremendous amount of work for only one ride. I got tossed, barreled, thrown, crushed, bashed, held under, tangled, and drank a few cocktails. Basically I was a rag doll!

"And there's winners and there's losers
But that ain't no big deal
Cause the simple man baby pays for the thrills, the bills"

Kickflip

The ocean is way too rough today so I ordered a few surf books from Amazon. It's no wonder Borders is going out of business. They don't have the books in stock, can't ship for two weeks, and each book costs $10 more than Amazon, who can ship today. Someone will always build a better mouse trap.

The conditions should be ideal tomorrow, but I'll be stuck in a condo meeting all day. Any tips on how to ditch the meeting?

This guy does a kickflip--a skateboard maneuver performed on a surfboard...pretty sick!


"Never look down on anyone unless you're helping to pick them up"--Jools Holland

Take That, Rewind It Back

It was a year ago today that I caught my first wave. Am I any better? Maybe a little. On my third wave, I did a floater (at least that's what I think it is--if such a thing is possible on a longboard). I was trimming backside on a shoulder-high wave, climbed the face, hung out on the lip for a little bit and then dropped back in.

Everyone was out there today. I asked this older guy (one of the best longboarders at Higgins) for a tip and he couldn't stop giving me advice. This summer he was very rude to me. Maybe he cut me some slack 'cause there's more camaraderie in the winter or maybe 'cause when I was paddling out, he was on a wave and I went behind him and got crushed by the soup (that's what you're suppose to do--even if it means getting barrelled).

When I was leaving, I saw this photographer with a mad lens (like 3 ft long). He's posting pics for Magic Seaweed and they should be up tonight. I've have some good pics too, but been having technical difficulties.

Maybe I'll hit it again around 4:00 if the tide cooperates....BON MARDI GRAS!!!!

Dancin' Days Are Here Again

Didn't look surfable this morning so I took a scenic, coastal drive. Went to Mother's Beach and Gooch's Beach in Kennebunk--not happening although two young kids from Georgia tried goin' out. Then I went to Ogunquit and Long Sands--again, no good. Next stop...Short Sands. I had never been there and was real tempted to go out. One shortboarder went out, but I thought the waves were too short for the effort. Driving the back roads was real cool though, 'cause they were all washed out and waves were crashing up on the rocks.

Lo and behold! When I got home the sets were comin' in real nice. A lot of work paddlin' out, but definitely worth the two rides I caught. Hit two nice drops. One guy caught a tube. How sweet is that. He caught a tube in Old Orchard Beach. Wooooooo!!!!!


Check out this funky rainbow.

Mush

You know the routine. They call for sick waves all week. I was up waiting, watching the waves from 5 am - 5 pm yesterday. Nothing materialized. This is all I have to show for it.

Went out today and it was mush.

Surfing Optional

I did a lot of paddling today. I think I caught one wave. It can certainly be frustrating at times. Good news is that it looks like there are some good waves coming in on Saturday and lasting for the week. Let's hope.