Take That, Rewind It Back

It was a year ago today that I caught my first wave. Am I any better? Maybe a little. On my third wave, I did a floater (at least that's what I think it is--if such a thing is possible on a longboard). I was trimming backside on a shoulder-high wave, climbed the face, hung out on the lip for a little bit and then dropped back in.

Everyone was out there today. I asked this older guy (one of the best longboarders at Higgins) for a tip and he couldn't stop giving me advice. This summer he was very rude to me. Maybe he cut me some slack 'cause there's more camaraderie in the winter or maybe 'cause when I was paddling out, he was on a wave and I went behind him and got crushed by the soup (that's what you're suppose to do--even if it means getting barrelled).

When I was leaving, I saw this photographer with a mad lens (like 3 ft long). He's posting pics for Magic Seaweed and they should be up tonight. I've have some good pics too, but been having technical difficulties.

Maybe I'll hit it again around 4:00 if the tide cooperates....BON MARDI GRAS!!!!