I'll Take You Frame By Frame It

Caught my first three, real nice rides. Then the lineup started getting crowded. I get nervous when there's a big lineup. I don't wanna mess up anyone's wave, especially if they are better (which they probably are).

I'm now in the pocket, this wave is mine. I start to go for it and then this guy (on a green board) about four feet to my right starts paddling. I pull out eventhough it's my wave. Otherwise I would've cleaned him out (and it woulda been his fault). He misses the wave. Here comes another. This guy does the same thing. I don't care, it's mine. I'm up and cruising the wave, a patch of white water forms out front of me, I swerve around it and out run it catching back up to the wave which links up with another. It was my longest right (frontside) ever. I paddle back out and I'm a few hundred yards to the right of the lineup. Normally, I would just catch a left from that spot. Instead (all juiced) I paddled a couple hundred yards and plopped my board right next to the green board.

While changing by my car, this dog starts barking at me like I'm stealing his owner's board. I try and tell the dog it's my board, but he keeps barking. I don't know why he's harrassing me. I helped his owner out with her wetsuit. After the dog calms down, I start barking at him and he gets all wound up again.