The waves were sick all day long at OOB. I caught a handful tonight, but really only rode three. The waves were a bit steep for my log. Had one spill where I landed hard on my ribs (smack). After my last semi-ride (if you can call it that) I was caught between the inside and outside so I rode the foam in on my belly. I was flying!!!
Got swept all the way down to the Brunswick. It was a nice evening walk home. All alone--just me and my board!
(My boy knows that late-night walk with a few smugglers)
Happy Halloween
11 years ago
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