Unconditional Surrender

What did we learn today? There is no surf on the Gulf Coast. At least that's what everyone tells me. Went to Longboat Key, Siesta Beach, Turtle Beach, Caspersen Beach, Venice Beach and Lido Beach. At Caspersen Beach people are collecting Shark Teeth.

So tomorrow, I'm headed to Cocoa Beach on the East Coast. I'll probably be shooting over each day. We'll see. Old Orchard and Higgins blows the Gulf Coast away (as far as surf is concerned).

Bust

No waves at Cape Hatteras. Met one guy from NJ who was gonna go out. I was gonna join him but couldn't find a shop open to rent a board. The waves were probably rockin' back home. I'm now chillin' in Florida. Hopefully they'll be some good action this week.

In my room, on top of the armoire is a framed photograph of a surfer (silhoutte) riding a thick wave. My dad never knew it was there. My mom put the picture there. Weird. Hey I'm in the surfer suite.

Florida Bound Via Hatteras

Rolled in around midnight to Kill Devil Hills Beach, NC. Major delays (took 6 hrs in NJ). When cruising in to the OBX there's a billboard..."No Shirt, No Shoes, No Problem." No Doubt a surfing community.

Off to Cape Hatteras although it looks like there's gonna be no surf action today. Worst case, It's rated 4th nicest beach in America

pic is of Kill Devil Hills Beach aka Nags Head

Holiday Cheer

I must have been good 'cause Santa brought me some waves. The crew was hoot'n and holler'n, just havin' a good time. One guy said, "The Ultimate Christmas Party!"--right on.

Merry Christmas to All!!!

Brilliant

You know who is smart? The scratch. People say don't scratch it will make things worse. Ah, but the scratch is so tempting. It offers temporary relief. Ah, the scratch--you feel so good. How can I resist you. The scratch is very smart.

It Only Takes One

Well I still got a rash. The good news is it's only on my hips and neck and it's tolerable. The hips is weird, I must waddle when I paddle for the waves. Many people experience wetsuit rash on the neck so I'm not too concerned there.

Man, I have never worked so hard for so little. I was missing every wave. I kept looking over my shoulder to see if Ken was filming, 'cause that would explain it. Ah, but I would soon be reminded...it only takes one good wave.

Even better news. The days are getting longer. You know what that means? Time to catch one more wave.

Scuba Gear

"Testing, attention please." I went surfing the scuba shops. I ended up with a full body rash guard (basically a wetsuit under my wetsuit.) Either I'll be good tomorrow or I'll be bummin'.

Right now it doesn't really matter 'cause I rode some waves today. Only caught four but three of 'em were real dope. It was also snowing so that was cool.