Good Question

I was asked yesterday, "Hey Big Wave does one wave stand out above the rest?" That's a good question. It's a tough one to answer...it's really close between the last wave and the next wave!

It's cool when driving home someone honks their horn and throws you a Shaka.

Let's Rock The House

It was nice to be out in a lineup again. The dynamic is really cool...wait your turn and catch the wave. You have to catch it. There was about 15 of us out there. I'm thinking to myself, "doesn't anyone work?"

"I think one reason people are drawn to the ocean is the feeling you get the minute you dive into the water. You can instantly feel it's power and instantly respect all it's power and beauty. This is definitely one reason that surfers are so addicted to surfing and will give up everything they have and own just to be able to hit the waves everyday. Surfing is a lifestyle, religion and a way of life for surfers, it's what they live for everyday that they're alive."--Jason Fackrell

I did really well today. I was in complete control from the moment I started paddling. I was catching chest-high peelers no problem and rocking the waves. I was riding one frontside and dragging my hand on the face.

Without Love

...where would you be now?" The last ride of the day was magical.
"The ocean is lower than all rivers, yet all rivers flow into it."

Alive, She Cried

The Ocean has been dormant for the past ten days. Today she rose from a deep sleep. I felt alive for the first time when I caught the first wave. I too was awakened from a deep sleep. I have a lot of work to do. All the others catch waves with such ease and lack of effort. I tried to have no thoughts, be one, and just flow with the energy. All in good time. "Something will come from nothing. Without nothing there can not be something."

Smack

Curiosity didn't kill the cat...it was complacency!!! Deep down in the underground laboratories of the Ball-Z Corp., we're bringing the game to the twenty first century.

More Of The Same

Today was a repeat perfomance of yesterday. I couldn't do any of the poses at yoga. I missed the train.

Defeated & Demoralized

I went to watch Samantha's soccer game this morning. She is a scoring machine. They limit her to 2 goals per game.

The waves were real nice today. I've been reading books on being one with the wave and all that. I was out for a strong 2 hours and didn't catch jack. Not even one wave. I did a nice face plant though.

Are You For Real

Friday October 8th

Alberto calls Thursday night. We've got problems. First thing Friday I'm hitting trim shops again (I'd rather be trimming waves). Running from shop to shop with no luck is worse than going from beach to beach and finding no waves.

Hey did you know this guy is still around? Speaking of which, my boy is gonna be moving to Maryland. Head home--I think not. One last time to rock it in Boston. I can't fill you in on anything more than that.

Hangin With The Girls

Thursday October 7th

First things first. I am a master at riding the Ferry. Picked up all my skills from John over at Peaks Island. Lady Liberty is a true beauty.

Caught up with Elaine. I haven't seen her in ages.... We went to see a comedy show at Comix. New York is an expensive place. Elaine tells me it cost $50 just to walk out the door in the morning. True enough. Hey Elaine, sneak a peek around those buildings, look up and hopefully you see her.

A bunch of tourists got a hold of this shot. They were lovin it.

Action Packed

Wednesday October 6th

Why did I stay in Queens again? Oh, that's right...to Surf!!! Hit Long Beach in the morning. The waves at this spot come in much different than home. There was an adjustment period before I started to catch some good stuff. Had a smoothie for lunch. Appropriately, it's called the "Beach Bum".

Surfed Lido Beach in the afternoon. While sitting on my board planes are flying directly overhead. I'd say only about 500-600 feet in the air. I'm kinda freakin'. Just glad Sully wasn't flying...he likes to land in the water.

Next stop...New York Comedy Club. I was gonna get this pic for the blog, then the crowd said tell some jokes so I obliged.

Wait, we're not done yet. Shot over to Bleecker where I saw this amazing guitarist. I was rapping with him til the wee hours of the morning. I'm pumping him up so much. He slips a cd in my jacket. I'm now reading the liner notes. I was chillin with Grammy Nominee, John Primer. It says, "John should be credited for helping Muddy Waters bring the Blues to Chicago." If you ever have the chance to see John Primer...I highly recommend it. This guy ROCKS!!!

Aaaaaah!!!

Tuesday October 5th

Finished my work with Alberto by noon. Hit the Central Park Zoo. What a sweet zoo! The sea lions are real posers. It was a great day for a walk in the Park.



Have I mentioned that my feet are killing me. I haven't worn shoes in a long time either. I end up at Quiksilver SoHo. They've got stuff in my size. I leave the store wearing my slippahs and my feet let out a huge sigh of relief, Aaaaaah!!!

Got Trim

Monday October 4th

Startled the day off in a wrestling match with the ironing board. In all my years, I've yet to figure out this beast. Love my Jiffy Steamer!!! Had to dress up to go meet Alberto.

The F train to the city is a looooong ride(really messed up in where I stayed). Haven't worn clothes, "since I don't know when". Man was I hot. I could feel the beads of sweat slowy rolling down my body.

Anyway...I walked the fashion district, hitting trim shops from 9:00 am to 6:45pm while lugging all my surf gear.

Road Trip

Sunday October 3rd

The best part of a road trip has to be the tunes. Heard "Seasons in the Sun" by Terry Jacks (go back and read blog entry Back Track--Terry Jacks March 10, 2010). Had a good vibe rollin' in.

"People goin' ridin' on the subway...subway." I was the only white boy on the F train and the only person wearing shorts (boardshorts). Hit 5 Quiksilver & Billabong shops--none of them had slippahs or shorts in my size.

Nice Waves

What Nicole lacked yesterday, she made up for today! Nice offshore wind, glassy, chest-high conditions. I got tossed and pearled about the first ten I went after. If I pull that stunt in New York, I'll get booted from the lineup. Finally I started catching some really good rides. Then a flock of seagulls was hovering overhead and I figured it was time to roll. I boogey-boarded in.

Off to New York tomorrow so the blog will be on hold for a week (chillin' in the ghetto, no safety box in my room), but I'm sure I'll update the surfing adventures when I return.

Chop Suey

They were calling for 8ft at Higgins. Yeah, choppy mush soup that was eight feet deep. I rode the froth four times before bolting. Like a kook, I drove to Old Orchard with my wetsuit on (normally I would change) trying to hit something there. More of the same. There was a stong onshore wind with waves 3 seconds apart--chop suey. Tough going today.