Let's Rock The House

It was nice to be out in a lineup again. The dynamic is really cool...wait your turn and catch the wave. You have to catch it. There was about 15 of us out there. I'm thinking to myself, "doesn't anyone work?"

"I think one reason people are drawn to the ocean is the feeling you get the minute you dive into the water. You can instantly feel it's power and instantly respect all it's power and beauty. This is definitely one reason that surfers are so addicted to surfing and will give up everything they have and own just to be able to hit the waves everyday. Surfing is a lifestyle, religion and a way of life for surfers, it's what they live for everyday that they're alive."--Jason Fackrell

I did really well today. I was in complete control from the moment I started paddling. I was catching chest-high peelers no problem and rocking the waves. I was riding one frontside and dragging my hand on the face.