Trick or Treat

I gave my dad several opportunities to hit Hatteras on the way down--that would have been a real treat. Instead we opted to go to see Pedro at South of the Border. The trick was on me.

I'm on a 284 mile stretch of road with swamps and trees as far as the eye can see in all directions--oh no here comes the rollers. I'm asked if I know the speed limit in the city limits? City Limits, I guess that's what the hillbillies consider a city? I told Officer Beets to call ahead as I've got anotha 987 miles to go.

Cruised in at 11:30 last night. My dad wanted to spend the night in Savannah. If, I'm gonna take three days to drive to Ball-Z South (still operating in the red), I can assure you one night will be in the OBX. If there would be no speed limits on these backwoods roads, I'd do it in one day.

Waves are gonna be off the hook all week on the East Coast!!!

Caught with...

Well not quite with my pants down, but...caught in my boardshorts and slippahs. Who knew the trip to Florida would be like this. I guess the weather channel did.

My dad is real upset as I decided to forego the Outter Banks. Probably should've gone that way. We are way behind schedule. We are crashing in Virginia tonight and it looks like we've got another 15 hours ahead of us. We did better last year going to the OBX (supposedly out of the way).

Stay Tuned

The OBX may not be working this weekend. If not, no problem (save about 8 hrs driving), I'll be hitting Sebastian Inlet...Florida's premiere spot. If news changes en route, I will let you know. Would love to hit Hatteras as I need a new OBX sticker for my car.

The Good, The Bad AndThe Ugly

The good news is head-high waves in Hatteras on Sunday.
The bad news is nothing here until then.
And the ugly. You should have seen me yesterday in dress shoes, slacks and shirt--Ugly!

Flounder

Whew I did a lot of paddling today and not much else. I'm reminded of the guy who said, "it's looks like a lot of work for so little."

Ah...but, I caught two nice rides. One frontside where I did a big sweeping bottom turn and one backside where I was cruising down the line and saw the wave was gonna close so I turned it in. They say it only takes one. One good ride keeps the stoke alive and makes it all worth it.

Upon walking home, my camera man asked me how it went. He tells me he has other things to do. That's alright. Check out www.gopro.com

Good Thing...

...my video crew wasn't around. I had about as poor a session as you could possibly imagine.

At least it was good to be in the water...not really. It's almost time to bust out the winter suit. If nothing else I'll be wearing gloves next time out. Hopefully that will be in a few hours and the video team should be here by then.

Sweet Dreams

I caught the longest frontside wave today. It just went on forever. Then I woke up.

"But that was just a dream
That was just a dream"

If the waves come in tomorrow as predicted...I hope to turn dreams into reality.

Surfing A Shark

This musta been one hell of a ride

http://www.weather.com/outlook/weather-news/news/articles/surfer-shark-oregon_2011-10-14

Can I Hear A Hey

The next time out (after a killer session) is never as good. Well you can lay that theory to rest. I ripped a sick backside wave where the wall was holding up and just kept going.

"If it's all right with you, I'll rip this here one apart"

It was cool, I just kept looking way down the line--carving the wave.

You know I was in the right spot today 'cause the Kennebunk gang was here in the morning and the Higgins crew in the evening.

Finally

Finally rocked the new board. I'm gonna tell you about one ride and that's it. Well...'cause it was that good. I'm taking off, I don't know what's happening. I see white water crashing on my head. I close my eyes, scoot down real low and hold on. Next thing I know, I emerge from the soup, riding high on the open face. I drop down, do a bottom turn, up the face, a top turn back down, and finish it off with a baby kick out.

One beach-goer said it's looks like a lot of work for so little. Don't be fooled. What looks like so little is the thrill of it all!!!!

To All The Haters

This post goes out to all the crackers who have been hounding me about surf. Went out today. Brought my 8'0 'cause I'm anxious to get rolling on this one. Shoulda took the 9'4...actually shouldn't even been out there it was chop suey...but my readers, especially the crackers get what they want.

Hit one backside bottom turn and another where I was going right and the wave was closing so I turned it left. I think I figured on this board I need a wider stance to make the board hop. All in all nothing to right home about. Hope you crackers enjoy!

The Best

The Presidential got a rock chip and I noticed a leak the other day. You want the best, you got the best. I went to see Mary who hooked me up. Mary says it looks like I'm rollin' around incognito in an old man's car--Exactly the point. Good Luck PoPo!

Mary entered a nation-wide competition and ranked 17th best auto glass installer in the United States. She was the first female ever in the competition. They didn't know what to make of it. I assure you she was the best (a bit of sexism definitely factored into the results). If you saw her score card...I mean they docked her points for having rivets in her jeans. Everyone had jeans and no one else was docked for this BS. One guy broke the windshield during the installation and placed higher than her. I rest my case. Anyway...Mary Morissette, hands down the best.

Just A Pretty Picture

Not Much Action

The only action lately has been hangin' with friends on the beach and a little yoga. As you might notice from the shirt, I'm gearin' up for Hatteras at the end of the month. Also hoping for a little action Thursday & Friday. Reports calling for overhead at Higgins. You know those reports--we'll see.

Tough D

Samantha is in a round-robin tournament. She had two games today. In the first game she scored a goal and had an assist. Look at her playing tough D here (in blue). She cut down the angle, closed in, and took the ball away. She has another double header tomorrow.

Goochie Goochie Goo

Nice waves at home today, but I went chasing instead. Went to Gooch's. The report said and I quote, "Waves are 2-3ft…thigh to waist high. Super glassy and peeling real nice." The only thing there...was flat glass and believe me I know a little about flat glass.

I've made this mistake before. Good waves at home, stay home. Take the sure thing. Hopefully I learn this time.

Met a couple of good guys in the water. I mean we had nothing to do other than talk. It was that bad.

Timing & Conditions

You need the right timing and the right conditions. I've been watching the waves over the past two days and I think both times I was out 2hrs too early--that's timing. Conditions are a huge factor as well. Right now the waves are comin' in so sweet, I think I could get barreled. Word to the wise....

Hit it at the right time with the right conditions--that's what it's all about!!!

Off The Wall

I took my log down and gave it a whirl. Hit one nice drop--haven't done that in a while. I got swept from the red roof to Grey Goose (about two blocks). Then I got a bit freaked. The sky was overcast, it stated raining, murky waters...that's when the men in grey suits come around. Plus I was the only one out there.

One more from my crackpot crew. In all fairness, I don't give them much to work with.

Ironically, the only video I have of me surfing comes from the intern I canned. The video comes before he was even in the internship program (Sept. 19,2010 Late Night, Early Waves).

Ace Video

I employed the services of two video companies today hoping to catch some action. Obviously I am overpaying for the services I receive.

Big Wave

I had this planned out before I left Hawaii a year and a half ago. All the bottle caps have a Hawaiian word with the English translation underneath. Each cap you see is a different word. Imagine my surprise when I arrived in Hawaii and there was an ale named Big Wave. I didn't have to think twice selecting my drink of choice.

Received a DVD from Ken yesterday titled, "The Adventures of Big Wave Dave". I didn't realize how good my videographer was. His commentary is great. I am now determined to catch some good waves for him (that are blog-worthy).