Can You Imagine

There were the most-beautiful waves yesterday. They were holding up perfectly and just rolling. I watched this guy catch two sick waves. Unfortunately, I was caught up in business. Can you imagine that?

OBX Baby!!!

Just got off the phone with my dad. I'm gonna pick him up on April 27, then we are gonna hit the Outter Banks. If nothing else I need to grab a new OBX sticker.

Peace Out!

New Year

The paddle out was killer. A lot of (all) shortboarders at Higgins. About half way out I could see they were rippin' so I caught some white wash in. I didn't want to get in the way. I scoped out my own little section. A huge wave was coming my way. I wasn't sure if I wanted to grab it (due to position) and said to myself," take the beating like a man." I started to make the drop and sure enough...I took a beating.

Today (or yesterday) is the start of my third year surfing. On March 8, 2010 I caught my first ankle biter. They say it takes 2-3 years to get good at surfing. I hope that's true because you woulda thought today was my first day.

(Hanalei Bay 2010. Big Wave doesn't look too bad for his first time)

"In Actuality"

The waves looked much better from my window. It's no wonder it was me, myself, and I. First two were good than it was total slop. As you know....any wave is better than no wave, but some days are much better than others.  You also know that I am not big on 'surf forecasts'...but it's projecting  to be good tomorrow and Thursday.  These things "in actuality" never pan out.

Giddy Up

Well today's performance was not as good as yesterday's. Hey, that's to be expected. I couldn't find the pocket  and couldn't out-run the sections. I think I'm gonna bring the Green Manalishi out next time.

All in all a subpar performance. Go figure. If I was a golfer that would be great. So next time your boss tells you that you performance has been subpar you should ask when can you expect a raise.

And just think...all this time I've been surfing on the wrong side of the tide. I guess it's better than being on the wrong side of the law.

Holy Smoke & Sweet Desire

I wake up to some rockin' waves (about 12 people in the water). I go get my morning Monster and talk to some surfers on my way back. I always thought the spot was incoming tide. They tell me outgoing.  "I say where'd you get your information from"...well either side of low tide. So maybe I'll be back out in a few hours.

Best wave yet...hands down. I'm rollin' backside, up the face--workin' it. I see a bowl ahead of me and swoop into it, blasting down another drop. As I approach the shore a SUP, right next to me, is hootin'!

Caught another backside where I look behind  to see the curl (never looked behind before) I was stalling and pumping to stay right in the curl.  Next ride I bail only to see my nemesis (wavehog) heading right for my board.  Fortunately, I grab my leash in time and yank my board out of the way.

Attempting a frontside...perfect position. I face-plant right into the wave 'cause I'm riding stink butt. Gotta eliminate that from my arsenal.

I told you about my best wave, right?  Well strike that. That was my second best ever...'cause I'm up and rocking a frontside. Bottom turn, trimming high on the face, top turn, bottom turn into a bowl, trim, drop,bottom turn. I see the wave about to close out hard, and one final top turn. I stay up, turn it to the left and roll into shore.

No Surfing....

Had to tend to business today so no surfing.  Old Orchard was way too rough anyway. I went to scope out Higgins. Waves were big and there were three guys surfing. Usually the day after the storm is good...