New Year

The paddle out was killer. A lot of (all) shortboarders at Higgins. About half way out I could see they were rippin' so I caught some white wash in. I didn't want to get in the way. I scoped out my own little section. A huge wave was coming my way. I wasn't sure if I wanted to grab it (due to position) and said to myself," take the beating like a man." I started to make the drop and sure enough...I took a beating.

Today (or yesterday) is the start of my third year surfing. On March 8, 2010 I caught my first ankle biter. They say it takes 2-3 years to get good at surfing. I hope that's true because you woulda thought today was my first day.

(Hanalei Bay 2010. Big Wave doesn't look too bad for his first time)