Holy Smoke & Sweet Desire

I wake up to some rockin' waves (about 12 people in the water). I go get my morning Monster and talk to some surfers on my way back. I always thought the spot was incoming tide. They tell me outgoing.  "I say where'd you get your information from"...well either side of low tide. So maybe I'll be back out in a few hours.

Best wave yet...hands down. I'm rollin' backside, up the face--workin' it. I see a bowl ahead of me and swoop into it, blasting down another drop. As I approach the shore a SUP, right next to me, is hootin'!

Caught another backside where I look behind  to see the curl (never looked behind before) I was stalling and pumping to stay right in the curl.  Next ride I bail only to see my nemesis (wavehog) heading right for my board.  Fortunately, I grab my leash in time and yank my board out of the way.

Attempting a frontside...perfect position. I face-plant right into the wave 'cause I'm riding stink butt. Gotta eliminate that from my arsenal.

I told you about my best wave, right?  Well strike that. That was my second best ever...'cause I'm up and rocking a frontside. Bottom turn, trimming high on the face, top turn, bottom turn into a bowl, trim, drop,bottom turn. I see the wave about to close out hard, and one final top turn. I stay up, turn it to the left and roll into shore.