No Way Out

There was no way I was getting to the outside. By the time I got remotely close to a breaking wave I was done. I tried to pop-up and my legs were jello.

I had just finished watching Dog Town and Z-Boys so I was pumped. Yeah, I still get my movies at a video store (old school). When I was in Santa Monica/Venice I was right in Dogtown but didn't explore...I was kickin' it with family.

I've said it before and I'll say it again. There's a reason why there's no one else out there. My best ride of the day was when I was slip slidin' away on the ice in the street.

Sanford & Son

Nothing but junk. There's a reason no one is out there. I know better too, but I'm bull headed like that. Besides, what else am I to do? I had to give it a shot. At least I got a swim in.

There are some nice little sets at Hanalei Bay today. Check out the webcam.
http://www.balihai.com/Blog/kauai-hd-webcam/

Roll Out

Couldn't wait til noon. My forecasting skills told me to roll out early. O'Neill has a saying, "First In, Last Out." That was me today. Hit some good lefts and rights.

"You move it to the left
And you go for yourself
You move it to the right
Yeah if it takes all night
Now take it kinda slow
With a whole lot of soul
Don't move it too fast
Just make it last"

Did some good stuff today. Now I gotta try and cross step so I can walk the board. The only problem is that once I'm trimming the wave I don't wanna ruin a good ride.

All Tingly

February has been a long month with not many surf days. However, I have had my best rides in February...so that brings us to the age-old question...Quality vs Quantity. Ideally, you'd like a happy medium.

Right now I have a tingling sensation throughout my body. It looks like the waves are gonna be rockin' today. It's high tide right now and the waves are crashing hard. I hope it's still here in 4 hrs, it should be.

"We can never know about the days to come
But we think about them anyway
And I wonder if I'm really with you now
Or just chasing after some finer day.

Anticipation, Anticipation
Is making me late
Is keeping me waiting"

How 'bout that...I hit all the demographics with lyrics!

Home Sweet Higgins

I musta forgot where I was 'cause I sucked down a few Neptune Cocktails. Luckily I didn't start selling Buicks. Waves were stacked real close, maybe a 4 second period. If you wanted to catch a wave you had to spin quick and start to boogey. I did a drop knee (unintentionally) grabbed my left rail and dug my right rail into the face (I think this may have been instinctual cause that's where I needed to be).

Can you imagine being this guy? I would definitely soil myself.
Last year shark attacks were up 25% and today thousands of reef sharks swarmed Boca Raton.

Mika

Susie and Tom "Foolio" had a baby girl yesterday. Mika Adrienne Fitts. Congratulations Susie and Tom!!!

Great waves today, but you can't hit 'em when you rock around the clock. I'm sure Susie and Tom are riding a sweet wave!

False Advertisement

"You know what time it is? It's time for you to get some aggression out, that's what time it is." So they were calling for good waves yesterday and today. Unfortunately they were wrong on both counts.

They are calling for head high tomorrow. Let's hope the forecast is right, 'cause I don't know when I caught my last wave.

Way Small

The waves were ankle to knee high, but hey..."there's just room to hit it."

For the Eddie Memorial to be held, the swell has to be a minimum of 20ft meaning a wave-face height of over 30 ft. The Invitational is marketed as "Eddie Would Go." Totally opposite from the Eddie, I look at the tiny waves and think to myself, "Barry would go." Barry surfs on anything here in the summer.

The Super Bowl has been marketed as having great commercials. I haven't seen any good ones in years. This is still one of my favorites.

Poor Choice

They say there are certain days you have to surf. One of those being Super Bowl Sunday. There were nice knee-waist high waves with an offshore wind fanning the waves. Instead I went to yoga. I couldn't do anything right at yoga.

Well, Let's See

I was up at 4am to hit dawn patrol. Only problem, no waves.

My building lost power.

I entered a surf writing contest for "Surfer" magazine. No dice, not even an honorable mention.

While going to get gas, I'm harassed by a copper. I don't even know what this guy is doing on the road. He should be home collecting his pension. What's that NWA song? You know the one.

Consolation--I did very well on the Indo Board today.

These are my tracks to and from the beach. Big Wave--Trailblazer.

Free Ride

I scored some free tickets from Bob, owner of Island Carousel, while in Baltimore. If you have kids, bring 'em to the mall and take a ride on the carousel. It's a sweet ride!

The good guy always rolls in on a white horse.

The Next Day

It always seems like there are good waves the day after a storm. I was "en fuego" today. Helps to have good waves--they were holding up nice. On one ride I was trimming down the line and two crackers were paddling out in the zone. That's a no-no. I climbed the face and continued right by them. On another ride I was trimming backside and I swear my board was not in the water.

Trimming the wave is like an amusement ride that Rocks!!!

Ken, I rode one wave from the red roof past the rocks out front of Fran's. I had an equally long ride going frontside.

Open For Business

While half of the State was shut down, the ocean was Open For Business! I came out with all guns blazin' and that was about it. After the first three rides, I couldn't catch anything. Probably 'cause I was being swept hard to the left toward the rocks. The waves were breaking left and I was trying to go right to avoid the rocks. I had one where I was on top of the wave (standing up) and it passed me by. Popped-up too soon. I may go snowboarding in a half pipe to simulate the drop. You should see the good surfers. They make it look so easy.