Couldn't wait til noon. My forecasting skills told me to roll out early. O'Neill has a saying, "First In, Last Out." That was me today. Hit some good lefts and rights.
"You move it to the left
And you go for yourself
You move it to the right
Yeah if it takes all night
Now take it kinda slow
With a whole lot of soul
Don't move it too fast
Just make it last"
Did some good stuff today. Now I gotta try and cross step so I can walk the board. The only problem is that once I'm trimming the wave I don't wanna ruin a good ride.
Happy Halloween
11 years ago
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