The Next Day

It always seems like there are good waves the day after a storm. I was "en fuego" today. Helps to have good waves--they were holding up nice. On one ride I was trimming down the line and two crackers were paddling out in the zone. That's a no-no. I climbed the face and continued right by them. On another ride I was trimming backside and I swear my board was not in the water.

Trimming the wave is like an amusement ride that Rocks!!!

Ken, I rode one wave from the red roof past the rocks out front of Fran's. I had an equally long ride going frontside.