But not quite. The waves just weren't holding up. "Should I Stay or Should I Go?" Well people ask, "Hey Big Wave, what do you do?" I surf, so out I went.
Tried one swooping bottom turn--only problem, I swooped too much, buried the rail, and went plunging into the face.
Ah, but save the best dance for last. Caught a nice frontside where I was trimming, climbed the face and dropped in again.
Happy Halloween
12 years ago