Wednesday, November 30, 2011

Oh So Close

But not quite. The waves just weren't holding up. "Should I Stay or Should I Go?" Well people ask, "Hey Big Wave, what do you do?" I surf, so out I went.

Tried one swooping bottom turn--only problem, I swooped too much, buried the rail, and went plunging into the face.

Ah, but save the best dance for last. Caught a nice frontside where I was trimming, climbed the face and dropped in again. 

1 comment:

  1. It's a beautiful, sunny, and warm day and I was sitting on our deck being entertained by Big Wave Dave. The last wave he caught was amazing! Just like the energizer bunny, he kept going and going and going. It was a absolute thrill to watch!

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