Absolute...

Best session yet.  Best rides yet...Had 3 right away where I absolutely nailed it. On the first one I dropped down and did two big S-turns on the wave. And the rides were long. Had one ride where I was out front of the white water (but still in the power part)--looking ahead. Finally, I swooped backed into the wave and did a couple of turns. I think this is how you get into the barrel. I'm gonna get there again.  Got walloped on my last three attempts. Crushed, barreled and held under. I got promaja (Serbian), started to panic so I rode home on my belly.

Patience

I've been telling my two Serbian roommates about patience. Time to take your own medicine. I went out yesterday and was about to give up. The paddle out was difficult (only 'cause I was tired). After a few missed attempts I was ready to call it a day. How many turtle rolls can one do in a session? Then I started to catch some waves. I mean I really started to catch some waves. Nice drops and working the wave. The moral of today's blog is patience and persistence.

"Um..Hmm"

Killed it out there. Went to Higgins on a Saturday F*** Fest and I water hogged it. Hit the first one I went after about chest high and carved a nice backside. Caught about 4 good ones overall. This board handles really well with good waves. Had my best ride yet. Popped-up, made the drop going front-side, then I pulled a cutback into the curl and reversed it. I saw the wave was gonna close out so I tried to boogey into the barrel. There was no barrel as the wave closed hard and I just rolled with the white-wash.  Glenn was supping out there and killing it.  Just the fact that he was out there on a sup is crazy. You should check out 2kooks.com (still in the works).

Finally, I had to get outta there cause I almost got taken out 3 times by shortboarders and was eventually in the way. Psyched and Stoked that I finally rocked my new board!!!

Killing It

Glenn is killing it out there on the SUP while I am getting killed. I hope I can figure this board out. I'm getting up no problem, but doing absolutely nothing on the waves.

Let's Catch Up

It's been tough for me to get on my computer....Srpski's Skyping and all.  Last post second session...caught a nice backside trim and that was it, but it was a backside trim.

Went out a couple of days ago and did nothing 'cause the waves had no joules. I mean I stood up, but did nothing. Then I went to Higgins at night and did the same thing. Stood up and did nothing. I'm still trying to figure this board out and I think it all came together in a dream.

Went out today with Glenn. He had a nice little session. We caught a party wave which was cool. Then I hit a really nice wave where I did a C-like motion with my hand in front of me on the water. A big (slow motion) arcing turn. Glenn dropped his board on the walk home. Hopefully he gets it fixed in time as there should be nice waves for the weekend.

Sorry for the delay in posting.  Hey, I'm a surfer!

Yeah Boy

For the past two days I went out and test drove the Ferrari. They were perfect days for a nice test run. Small little, nothing days. I was getting used to the paddling which is fast.  Today we have real waves and I rocked the first wave. I mean I rocked it like never before. This board has action. On my last one I was down real low during the pop-up going through turbulence. I emerged on the other side and worked the wave. I'm getting ready for the afternoon session--I can't wait.