Saturday, October 19, 2013

Absolute...

Best session yet.  Best rides yet...Had 3 right away where I absolutely nailed it. On the first one I dropped down and did two big S-turns on the wave. And the rides were long. Had one ride where I was out front of the white water (but still in the power part)--looking ahead. Finally, I swooped backed into the wave and did a couple of turns. I think this is how you get into the barrel. I'm gonna get there again.  Got walloped on my last three attempts. Crushed, barreled and held under. I got promaja (Serbian), started to panic so I rode home on my belly.

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