Glad I Did

Almost didn't go out today. Looked small, but peeling nice. Then I saw this kid enthusiastically haul down the beach. I watched him for a while--debating. Then he caught this nice left and that was it. I actually learned something by watching him. Once in trim, I would scoot (crouch) down low and gain speed. Caught some good lefts. Waves were knee-high and glass.

Hair Situation

The last haircut/trim I had was in January while in Sarasota. I went to get a haircut at the Men's Room. Obviously this place caters to men. Trust me, there is a lot of stuff not listed on the menu. It is run by two blonde hotties. I arrived around closing time and asked if they could fit me in. The girl said to me, "You haven't had your hair cut in 9 months and all of a sudden you need one right now?" I told her, "come tomorrow, I may not want one."

Anyway, the girls told me to come back for my next haircut and I told them that likely wouldn't happen since I live in Maine. Well, I'm gonna be in Sarasota April 28th and I'm gonna go visit the girls. I'm gonna tell them, "let's do the same thing as last time" and I'll see them again in October for my next scheduled appointment.

A trim twice a year...sounds about right. Seems like all I do is trim!!!

I Think I Done Sprung Me A Leak

Water got into my wetsuit a few times--Brrrrr! Man, I gotta pick up my game. Only caught three today. But hey, I had the time of my life-- three times in one day--tough to beat!!!!

Conditions were real good this morning, but there was way too much fog to go out so I ended up playing the daylight/tide game tonight. It's critical to hit the waves at the right time of day/tide.

Mark Foo

"How can you describe the feeling of looking into a 30-foot tube, like a hole in the ocean? How do I convey the sights , sounds and sensations that just a handful of humans out of the billions of humans past, present and future will ever experience? What's it like to walk on the moon, Mr. Armstrong?"

In Retrospect

I shouldn't have let the snake ruin my session. Instead I shoulda just gone for the waves and told him to take his yellow board and bug off!!

More Surf Etiquette
The drop-in happens like this: Surfer A is closest to the curl, paddles into and catches the wave, only to find that Surfer B -- the dropper-in -- has also caught the wave, from further out on the shoulder. Surfer A is then blocked from making a successful ride. The two surfers may collide, accidentally or deliberately, but it's unlikely that either will enjoy the wave to its fullest. At some critical surf spots, Surfers A and/or B may even be placed in physical danger as a result.

A more subtle, yet potentially more offensive form of ride interference is the snake. This move is very bad etiquette, a greedy exploitation of the generally understood drop-in rule, and is usually practiced by competent and aggressive surfers. Snaking works like this: Surfer A, in position and having waited his or her turn, begins to paddle for the wave. Surfer B (the snake) waits until A's focus is purely on catching the wave, then makes a quick move to the inside and takes off, claiming the wave. If both surfers end up riding, it appears A has dropped in and is in the wrong, yet both surfers, and usually most onlookers, know otherwise.

Good Luck

To Higgins Beach: Good Luck with your parking ban.

I was out for a long time today and catching a bunch of waves. I was riding one wave and this guy was paddling out right in front of me. You all know that's a major no-no right? Anyway, I was feeling confident, continued my ride and turned around him. When I went back out, I told him that was the first time I've ever done that (put the fear of God in him).

There was 15 of us scattered throughout and there was a good wait for waves. For the first time, I was in the best position to catch waves (best takeoff spot). That's why I was catching a lot. Then all of a sudden this guy on a canary yellow board starts snaking my waves. Once he started doing that my game went downhill quick. If he were in a serious surf spot, it would be lights out. If I were a better surfer, I woulda cleaned his clock. Paddling in the zone is a major no-no, but snaking waves is much worse...a cardinal sin.

Paddling Rules
When paddling back out, do NOT paddle in front of someone riding a wave unless you’re well, well in front of him. You must paddle behind those who are up and riding and take the whitewater hit or duckdive. You’ll appreciate this the next time you’re up on a wave.

Snake
Paddling behind someone who's in position to steal their wave.

“Snaking” is when a surfer paddles around another surfer in order position himself to get the right of way for a wave

No Foolin'

It was a tough paddle out. So much so that I almost didn't wanna catch a wave. Then I caught one where it felt as though I was floating down the face. It was a nice glide. Then I made a big mistake. I was sitting on my board bobbing the waves when I saw a larger wave coming....Hmmm, I knew I wouldn't be able to bob it, but I tried anyway. About three quarters of the way up I saw the wave start to break. The lip nearly tore my head off and sent me round and round. This wave was so powerful, it ripped my board toward shore and I immediately felt it in my leg. It pulled me so far inside, there was no way I was getting back out. Shoulda Turtled!

The only April Fools Day joke was played by mother nature who dumped some snow on us. Funny thing is, the storm brought some waves. So who's foolin' who?