Nice Sets

Finally I rocked OOB!!! The sets were coming in nice and deep. About 6 deep and waist to shoulder high. For those of you who know where I live...I was catching waves at the hotel on one side of my building and riding 'em to the house on the other side. That's a good little stretch.

I got tossed hard on one attempt and my skeg hit me in the thigh. I know it doesn't look like much, but I was bleeding and I watched Shark Week. I'm sure I'll have a bruise tomorrow. Anyway, since I was bleeding I caught the next ride out of town!

Just Think

I almost didn't surf tonight. I was sluggish as I woke from my afternoon nap and was considering calling out. I'm glad I didn't...I had my best session yet. I hit the first five waves I chased and rocked 'em all. Wow, "Flying High Again"!!!

Good Things Come To Those Who Wait

Like I told the guys in the line up. "I've been paddling all morning and haven't caught a thing...but once you catch that first ride...it's all good!!!" Man, I paddled at least an hour before I caught a wave. Eventually, I caught three really cool rides. On one, the wave turned to white water and it was like I was shot out of a cannon--real sweet!!!

Went to town hall...they don't handle Scarborough Beach. It is a State Beach/Private Beach so I am gonna write the local Surfriders Foundation to voice my concerns and hopefully institute change.

Fred wants to go kayaking in the afternoon. That's my nap time.

Delivering The Goods

Started the day off at yoga. It's difficult to explain, but yoga is really cool! My teacher is great. She is so soothing and calming. I will miss this yoga class the most when I move to Hawaii!!!

This afternoon, we had a Luau at my Condo. Someone asked, "Hey Big Wave are you making a statement with your hair?" No statement. I don't cut it because I don't have to.

Hit my biggest wave tonight about head high. While dropping into the wave, the front end of my board was bouncing "rat-a-tat-tat" off the face. I didn't do much else other than hit the drop. I had to catch it. There were at least 75 people in the lineup. Once I committed to the wave, I had to own it.

So I figured out tonight...I hit the drop on bigger waves and that's about all I can do because I am anxious. I trim the wave on smaller stuff because there is no drop per se so I can work the wave.

Closeout Sale

It was nasty on the outside, the waves were closing out hard. When it's not nice outside, play inside. I went outside for a little bit and got barrelled so I came inside where the waves were a lot cleaner. I caught a bunch of rides, unlike the lemmings outside. I hit two sweet rides at the end on the night!!!

The parking lot was full. I asked Svetlana, the parking lot attendant, "they have no idea how much money you took in today, do they?" Svetlana looked at me, smiled and said, "how knows?"

I have a beef to take up with Scarborough Beach stemming from my morning session. Everyone at the surf shop loves my idea. I'll fill you in about it on Monday when I go to town hall. Surfer/Activist Big Wave Dave

Surfing Police

See! Higgins Beach has surfing po-po. I was in the water when a Dad with two kids said, "here they come". I told him we had to catch a wave in despite the time. He liked that. We couldn't come in if there was no wave to bring us in. And we waited...

Boogie Wonderland

I went to Higgins where the crowd was too big for waves that were too small. So, I boogied back home to catch some waves. I have to learn that when the waves are good at home--stay home!!! I've been telling myself this for weeks, but I always chase bigger waves. I have to remember...."a bird in hand".

So my neighbor is out on his balcony when I go after my first couple of waves where I pearl and pearl again. To my neighbors, my surfing tales must be like those of Mr. Snuffleupagus. After a couple pearls, I started catching waves. I trimmed the wave twice. I always tell you how fun hitting a drop is...well trimming the wave is really cool. If only I could combine the two.