Sunday, August 29, 2010

Delivering The Goods

Started the day off at yoga. It's difficult to explain, but yoga is really cool! My teacher is great. She is so soothing and calming. I will miss this yoga class the most when I move to Hawaii!!!

This afternoon, we had a Luau at my Condo. Someone asked, "Hey Big Wave are you making a statement with your hair?" No statement. I don't cut it because I don't have to.

Hit my biggest wave tonight about head high. While dropping into the wave, the front end of my board was bouncing "rat-a-tat-tat" off the face. I didn't do much else other than hit the drop. I had to catch it. There were at least 75 people in the lineup. Once I committed to the wave, I had to own it.

So I figured out tonight...I hit the drop on bigger waves and that's about all I can do because I am anxious. I trim the wave on smaller stuff because there is no drop per se so I can work the wave.

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