Head High

I may apply for the surfing forecast position at Magic Sea Weed. These guys are worse than the weatherman. They were calling for double overhead conditions (12 feet).

This morning I hit a 5 foot (shoulder high) drop. Tonight, the conditions were head high to overhead. The waves were powerful and there was a serious undertow. During one turtle roll the wave ripped the board right out of my hands. I was hanging way outside--which took forever(a shorter board is not far off). While trying to bob a wave and avoid it, the wave spun me around and threw me on my belly down the face. It was cool. I was riding my board on my stomach. After a little bit like this, I figured I might as well pop up and still rode it for a good stretch.