Boy was it small out there today. I had to hit it 'cause it seems like forever since I've been surfing. I had to wait long spells just to catch an ankle bitter. Finally, some knee-highs came and I was able to work on the turn. On my final wave I actually turned frontside, caught trim and then did another turn into shore.
"We are all smaller than the sea and bigger than ourselves when we ride the waves."- Dorian Paskowitz, PH.D.
Happy Halloween
12 years ago
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