I catch the first wave I go after. I'm turning right. There's another guy on the wave turning left...we are on a collision course. We both bailed! I'm not sure whose wave it was. I am way too passive in the lineup and was even more so after that. The woman with the little boy's haircut, on the otherhand, is way too aggressive out there.
Alright now I'm standing atop the wave. I begin to lean forward to hit the drop. Wham, I go flying off my board and my face and ribs smack the water at the same time. It felt like I hit a brick wall.
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