Who Says No Fear? Not Me

I retooled my paddle stick/brake with a shoe. Training wheels so to speak. This all started a few years back when I was surfing the Ube and a girl told me I should get a skateboard and Bomb Union. I think she told me it was called the Ube as well. So I wanna bomb Union but right now fear is winning.  I've been having trouble shaking this fear since I took that nasty spill on Island View last year (runs parallel to Union).

Street SUP

They have these land paddles for skateboarding. They cost like $150.00+.  I saw a video on how to make your own.  Big Wave's cost--$6.39.  My intention for the paddle was to go down Union. If I go too fast I can use the stick to slow down. Well after a little test run, I determined my homemade stick isn't gonna slow me down. I chickened out and did our little Old Orchard loop.

So As

Gotta thank Glenn for letting me use his SUP. This aircraft carrier is lighter than my green board. So my rolfer and my doctor have told me I have a super-duper,extremely tight psoas (pronounced so-as). What does that mean...means I need to start up yoga again. Poor Stephanie (my instructor). There's no talking in yoga. I ask her a million questions (hips forward, hips back--I don't know). Anyway, that's why I did the SUP today...it's 'spose to be a good core work out. I've tried it before with no success. Today the ocean was FLAT so I gave it a shot. After that initial wipe-out getting up, I went for 40 minutes straight without falling.

Update

Good News!!! My longboard can be fixed. Woohoo. Well we are not going to bother with the bottom, but it will be fixed and surfable. My green board now has the fin box ripped out and it is drying. I will be able to pick it up in the summer. It's drying--I told you it was water-logged.

Sad State Of Affairs

Pretty Sad. Prior to buying a new board yesterday, I had three boards and all are/were severely damaged.

Off To The Emergency Room

• My 9'4 has a crack from rail to rail and the bottom is toast as it looks like it buckled in a shore break
• My 8'11 water hog's tail is cracked, crumbled, and missing foam (being fixed)
• My 8'0 has a damaged fin box and is water-logged weighing about 100lbs

So I have 3 boards that are toast. I brought the 9'4 and 8'0 to see if they can be fixed. Keeping my fingers crossed. I think the 8'0 is repairable but don't know about the 9'4 (previously told "beyond repair"). If I get all my boards back with the addition of my new board, I will have a nice little quiver.

Quiver: A surfer's collection of boards for different kinds of waves

What Was I Thinking

Went down to NH hoping for some surf. With no surf I went to the surf shop and ended up with a new board. Bye-Bye bandage-water log....I bought a 7'6" Fish. What was I thinking?  I don't know. I've been researching and looking at Fish boards for a little bit now. Besides..My water-logged 8'0 is virtually the same as my water hog 8'11 (minus the rocker). Time to go wax this bad boy up!

Street Cred

Got a rag-tag-repaired, water-logged board (super glue & duct tape), but hey...I'm out there. Can't wait to get the waterhog back. Anyway, I was in the heart of the lineup at the Rivermouth. I have never been in the Rivermouth lineup at Ogunquit before. I've always surfed the main beach (what the locals call the ladies tee). I had to let a lot go.  I was out there with about 6-8 shortboarders at all times. I gave respect and went strictly for scraps. Coulda gone after a few real ones I guess, but I gained some street cred at OGT and gained some confidence as I got up on a bunch of crap.  No real rides 'cause I didn't go after any real waves. I can't wait to hit OGT again and hit that lineup and go after some real waves.