It's Always Good...

When you can go out, paddle a board, and grab a few waves.  I was real aggressive going for a wave every couple of minutes, but would overcut (over turn) everything--trying to turn way too hard and burying my rail. All good though.


 I really enjoyed the second ride here--although nothing special... Someone else had priority--it was their wave. If you notice I look to my right (your left) while paddling. I go to my knees because I am going to pull out of the wave (off the back), I see him fall and I continue to grab the wave

Fish Pops

Good practice popping up on the fish because there wasn't much of a wave face today...mostly crumbling white-water. Then I get popped. Don't worry fans...I saw it coming. A big oil tanker (sup) came flying at me.

Yeah Boy!!!

Hog or Fish--The Great Debate

Hey, Yo Big Wave clean your lens once in a while. Check That!
The hog or the fish that is the question. I don't know which board to use.  They are rated for similar conditions, but do different things. I just wanna make the right choice. I went with the Hog today 'cause it was so windy.

Too Bad you can't see 'cause these are some really nice rides. Bummer.

Gotta Work

Gotta work for the waves on the fish. Phew. May just take the hog out tomorrow. First wave, I hunted down Go Pro Glenn (ironic) and almost cleaned him out. Later on, he almost cleaned me out as I was in his way three times. So after about an hour out there I  started thinking before each wave--3 L's.  Look ahead (when paddling) where you wanna go, Stay Low (once you're up), and Stay Loose so you can turn. I have a tendency of being all rigid once up and locking in on the wave. That's why we skateboard...to stay loose.

Tales From The Fish

To my non-surfing friends...I missed the first one due to fear. I popped up too soon and the wave passed me by. I was afraid to paddle into/down the wave.  On the others you can see I was SHAKY. I have a lot less board, but from those shaky rides I realized it's all the same. So next time I go fishing, hopefully, I will have no fear.

On the last wave, after the super-shaky pop up,  I was gonna make a bottom turn but could see the wave was gonna pound me onshore so I jumped through the wave. That's also how I break all my boards--on a shore break.

Downhill

Video Is Spastic and All Over The Place, But I Had A Lot I Wanted You To See


Today's session went downhill quick. Started out fine and then....So I read reviews of the Moby Fish on line and it says 2-8 feet and great for small, soft surf. It's a catch 22 because I want to ride the fish but I know I can get up on the hog. After today I'm taking the fish out on small junk.