Tales From The Fish

To my non-surfing friends...I missed the first one due to fear. I popped up too soon and the wave passed me by. I was afraid to paddle into/down the wave.  On the others you can see I was SHAKY. I have a lot less board, but from those shaky rides I realized it's all the same. So next time I go fishing, hopefully, I will have no fear.

On the last wave, after the super-shaky pop up,  I was gonna make a bottom turn but could see the wave was gonna pound me onshore so I jumped through the wave. That's also how I break all my boards--on a shore break.