Gotta Work

Gotta work for the waves on the fish. Phew. May just take the hog out tomorrow. First wave, I hunted down Go Pro Glenn (ironic) and almost cleaned him out. Later on, he almost cleaned me out as I was in his way three times. So after about an hour out there I  started thinking before each wave--3 L's.  Look ahead (when paddling) where you wanna go, Stay Low (once you're up), and Stay Loose so you can turn. I have a tendency of being all rigid once up and locking in on the wave. That's why we skateboard...to stay loose.