Surfriders

Today I hit Surfriders Beach in Malibu. I was in that lineup. One guy dropped in on another guy's wave and they smacked right into each other. I was just bobbing in the water right next to them and I got out of there real quick. I didn't wanna get blamed (I had proper surf etiquette) and I didn't wanna be a "kook"--google it. So I went and got a lesson so I would be in that line up with a local (smart move).

So Justin (my instructor) took me out to the third point where I hit my first drop on a 4ft wave. I was stoked--still am. Then I even went after a 6ft on my own and I got tossed like a rag-doll, all good.

When I get home, Surfer Bill is gonna be upset 'cause I'm gonna snake all his waves!