Gone, I'm outta here!

After work, I shot down to Higgins. Out on the beach was a guy playing the bagpipes--way cool. There was about twelve of us in the water, waist to chest high waves. A few so so rides and then I caught my best ride ever. I rode it all the way to shore and....I picked up my board and walked right over to my car. Boom, I'm gone. It is now 45 minutes later and I'm still riding the high!

Slap in the face

Tonight there are the most beautiful waves I have ever seen in Old Orchard. They are knee to waist high and holding up perfectly. The wind conditions are just right. I want to go out so badly...It is gut-wrenching. Unfortunately, I have a prior commitment. Oh, this is so painful. Obviously, I need to get my priorities in order.

Miss You

I think my mom would be stoked that I am a surfer, well maybe not. Either way, I wouldn't be one without her. It is her inspiration that brought me to Hawai'i. Thank you mom.
Happy Birthday!

Yeah!!!

"I watch these guys surf and you know what? It just makes you feel good. He'll, yes! I mean, it's just uplifting to watch these guys ride a wave. When you think about that, how can that be? Well, that's because it's stimulating something really deep inside you, I mean, it's not just a mental stimulation or even a physical stimulation like sex, but something a little deeper. It's some kind of spiritual stimulation. And that's what's so goddamn cool about it."

Gerry Lopez
June 11, 2009

Decisions descisions

Well maybe life is all about decisions as well. Yoga or surf? Today, when I was getting ready to go to yoga, I noticed seven surfers in the water. It didn't look like much action-- not even ankle bitters but I saw a few people get up. In my mind, there was no decision to be made. I suited up and hit my home surf. As I walked in the water, I was surrounded by seaweed--no worries. I paddled out and waited and waited... When all was said and done, I caught one ride and it was pretty cool because I had to maneuver and adjust on my board to keep it rolling. How cool is it that I can wake up, walk downstairs and surf! The decision had already been made, I will catch a make up Yoga class.

Perfect Days

"In this crowded world the surfer can still seek and find the perfect day, the perfect wave, and be alone with the surf and his thoughts..."
John Stevenson
January 1960, The Surfer

Maverick

Balance is the key to, probably life, but definitely to surfing. I was the only one out there today thus the title--not to be confused with the famous surf break. There were some good sets and I began to realize that there is plenty of time between waves even though it looks like they are real close together. Since I was alone, I stayed primarily on the inside and rode white water. I did venture out, however, and caught two drops.

Back to balance. I wiped out a lot because I do not have full balance with my board yet, we still need to become better acquainted although this is easier said than done because there is too much lull between surfable days. I need to work hard on my tree and eagle pose (not today) as I think this will help a great deal.

On my way home, I hit the surf shop and picked up a loud pair of boardshorts.

Stymied

Well the forecast was wrong today. I was all geared up to surf Higgins, unfortunately, the forecast was wrong. It called for knee high waves which would have been cool, however when I got there it was flat. So I cruised to Old Orchard trying to catch something--also flat. What really bites is the process I have to go through to get my board from my condo (and gear) to my car.


If there was a silver lining, it would be when I was checking out the surf in OOB there were seagulls claming. It is quite a sight. The seagulls pluck clams from the sand, soar overhead and drop the claims to shuck them...nature runs its course. Tomorrow I plan to hit Ogunquit after work, hopefully the forecast is correct as it is calling for waist high (3 ft).

Backstory... When I was reporting of no energy waves, I was mistaken. The waves had the energy--it was my timing that was off. This is something I have to work on as a novice...timing the waves and the pop up. Even on the video from Aimee...I was too late.

Tomorrow, I hope to report that I am catching waves as I have to go through the board and gear loading process in the a.m. Even better would be if I could report catching waves while it is snowing. I will keep you posted.

Beauty of the waves...

The beauty of the waves is that...the waves do not care about your shortcomings, looks, status, ability, preference, education, etc. The waves are non-judgemental. It is you and the ocean and for a brief moment in time nothing else matters. It is total freedom, joy and pleasure. As surfer grrrl notes in her blog, "surfing is very much like making love. It always feels good, no matter how many times you've done it".

I love the ocean!

Woo Wee!

I took a beating out there tonight. 1 step forward 2 steps back. The waves weren't as big as advertised but still chest high. I caught 2 nice rides and a couple baby rides. When I was taking my wetsuit off a lady walked right behind me and said "you have company here". I'm telling you it was intentional because she had a lot of paths she could have walked...anyway, I told her "that's okay I'm getting good at this, well better I don't drop my towel that often". The weekend report shows no action but that's alright because Pat is coming to town and I am sure we will create our own waves. Woo Wee!

Higgins Beach

Hit Higgins Beach tonight. I was anxious with my new board. I caught 2 waves so that put my anxiety to rest. The waves were chest high (5 ft). I didn't catch any that big but it was good. I met a few locals. Tomorrow (at Higgins) the waves are suppose to be even bigger. OOB should be 3.5 which is more my speed but I'm gonna hit Higgins nonetheless. My board is less stable than the foam boards...progress is made one step at a time.

Longboard

Picked up my first board. The problem has been whenever I want to go surfing all the shops are closed...problem solved. The board is 9.4 so I should be able to catch a lot of waves. I hemmed and hawed about which board to get and finally picked this one which I am happy with. All waxed up and ready to go!
Oh, it was pretty cool, we passed the board out the window from the second floor.

Surfing the Maine Waves

I've been itchin' to go surfing for 2 weeks now. Well today I went to Historic York, Maine where I was going to surf Long Sands. To
make a short story long....I ended up in Oqunquit where I bought a wetsuit, a 4/3 (I will need a 3/2 as we move closer to summer). Well I did not know I needed booties and gloves. So I got a lot of gear today (also a rash guard with a hoody). Surfed Ogunquit Beach and did pretty well. I popped up everytime no problem. It took me a while and then I started to put all of my schooling together and by the end I moved to where the waves were breaking and got 2 really nice rides. Tomorrow is Easter, gonna hit a service on the beach at 6 am and then hit the waves. How dope is that!