Balance is the key to, probably life, but definitely to surfing. I was the only one out there today thus the title--not to be confused with the famous surf break. There were some good sets and I began to realize that there is plenty of time between waves even though it looks like they are real close together. Since I was alone, I stayed primarily on the inside and rode white water. I did venture out, however, and caught two drops.
Back to balance. I wiped out a lot because I do not have full balance with my board yet, we still need to become better acquainted although this is easier said than done because there is too much lull between surfable days. I need to work hard on my tree and eagle pose (not today) as I think this will help a great deal.
On my way home, I hit the surf shop and picked up a loud pair of boardshorts.
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