F-Bomb

That's what I have for gloves...Rip Curl F-Bomb. Well they're not cutting it. I'd still be out there but my fingers are NUMB. Next stop--surf shop for some winter gloves.

Went out an hour and a half earlier than planned. I saw a surfer out there so I wonder to myself, (Do they know something I don't?) And without reason out I go.

Hit my steepest wave yet. Not biggest, but steepest. What they say is true. The steeper the wave, the quicker the pop-up. I pick up these tidbits online 'cause the surfer certainly won't give you this advice.