That's Right

I take my showers in the Atlantic. You wanna play games with me WWOOF? That's alright. I've got waves right here!

I could tell last night that there were gonna be good waves today. Where are all my critics/photographers when I am nailing it??? Been practicing my turn in my living room. It's a very subtle move. Hips and Shoulders.

I don't know if I've ever told you guys what an incredible feeling surfing is!!!!!

If your hands are cold 'cause you got water in your gloves and you've been out for 3 hours--do not, I repeat do not take your gloves off when you get out of the water in the dead of winter. Big Mistake.