Noreen Killed It

My friend Noreen paddled out to Eagle Island and back. One mile each way. She's been planning this for a bit. I was skeptical, but she absolutely rocked it. She didn't fall once.  The only hazard was some seagulls were harassing her out at the island--being protective.

Great Job Noreen!!!

Spring Training

Not much action anywhere today so we gave Fortunes a shot.  There were small little waves with a pretty quick period. Got a lot of good practice in. I caught a nice groove with my paddling and made some solid strides.  I had a great feel for the board and was real confident with my popups.  Of course I was, the waves were small--but everything just felt right. I didn't do anything on the waves...it was just a good training day.

Looks Can Be Deceiving

Waves looked good at the ube, unfortunately they had no joules. No joules means no power. No power means no rides--plain and simple. Shoulda bucked up and hit Higgins. The session, or lack thereof, was a total waste and a real morale de-booster. The only good thing is my suit smelled nice.

7 Deep

Washing my stinky gear...way overdue

Hit Higgins for the evening session. It was kinda crowded out there. Only caught two; one right and one left. At the end I went for a killer wave, shoulda hit it, but ended up doing a belly flop--Owwww!  There was one girl out there just laughing away when she'd miss the wave. Now that's the attitude. They say the surfer who's having the most fun is the best surfer. She was definitely the best surfer today.

The Nub

Started the day off at Fortunes--too sloppy. Next stop Gooch's. The waves were so sweet and glassy at Kennebunk, but way too close to shore. Off to the Rivermouth.  Ogunquit was messy. Hey we came this far, might as well check out Long Sands. Glad we made the trek 'cause there were waves.  I hit a nice backside right out of the gate where I was working the wave up and down.  Had a few other funky rides, but the first one was the best. I never realized the Nubble Lighthouse overlooks Long Sands.

Can I Get A Woo Woo

Finally caught some waves on the funboard. Too bad they weren't bigger, but it was good. Actually did a bottom turn and worked the wave a bit. Mostly junk, but I got some good practice in. Watched a good YouTube video this morning which helped me out. I think I got the jist of this board now and I'm ready to rock.

Baby Steps

That's where I'm at. Taking it day by day with the green board. I'm popping up, but not much else.  Dumped my broken board off the other day. Still not sure if 'ole trusty' can be fixed. I'll find out next week sometime.
Anyway...one step at a time.

Short Session

Just Another Kook

It was a very short session yesterday. Waves were peeling so nice. First attempt I popped up too soon and the wave passed me by (I was ready to rock the green board). Then Glenn drops in backside on his first wave.  He yells to me that he's cut. He wanted to stay out there, but I told him we had to go. Blood in the water...not a good thing.

Anyway, after his ride I guess the board came back and smacked him in the head. We were out there--I don't know maybe 10-15 minutes, then off to the ER.

No Waves

That's alright...no problem.  Hit the cemetery and did a little skateboarding. I was a little apprehensive without a helmet, knee pads, elbow pads, and wrist guards. I went down a little hill which seemed like a mountain to me.

This is Glenn's board. He was cool--guiding me at first (holding onto his arm like training wheels). When not surfing or skating...I rock the Indo

Practice, Practice & More Practice

The last two days were bad. Now reduced to one board I need a lot of practice. There were killer waves two days ago, but I was just in the way. It felt like the beginning. A guy was up and I had to paddle around him to get out of the way (did good though). On another it was a party wave...one guy going right, one left and I had to part the Red Sea. Like I said I was just in the way. A guy was rocking a wave headed straight for my floating board...I couldn't find my leash to yank it out of the way. Fortunately I found it at the last second before he would have crashed my board hard....No one likes a kook out there. The only redeeming thing is I did all the right things to avoid catastrophe. But at some point you have to just get lost.

Yesterday (again) I did nothing, but... I think I finally found the sweet spot on my green board and had a lot of paddling practice as there was nothing for me to attempt. Glenn got some good waves, BWD got some good practice.

Just Like Starting Over

Another rough day. I'm really unstable on my green board and it's just like starting over. I've gotta get a good feel for this thing. When I pop up it feels so shaky.  Just gotta put the time in I guess. The board does look mean though.

Big Wave Has Big Problems

It was the best of times, it was the worst of times... No, it was the worst of times. I pulled my board out of my bag only to notice it is cracked in half (from rail to rail). It must have snapped on my funky wipe out yesterday. So I had to grab the green machine (funboard) which I am not all that comfortable with. Needless to say I didn't catch anything.

Glenn wants me to let the world know that he is a Big P. Well I can't say (family friendly forum), but use your imagination. I think what he is trying to say is that he needs to commit and not be afraid.

Every break has hazards that are listed such as: reefs, sharks, localism, etc.
The only hazard at my home break is park benches in the water.

Bollocks

Glenn made a bee-line out to the break--no sweat. About an hour later, I think, I kinda-sorta got out there, but not really. I was sitting, waiting, getting crashed, pummeled, and abused. Finally, I had enough and decided it was time to come in. Plus is was overcast, grey water, seagulls were swarming overhead--a little scary. A wave was reforming. This was my opportunity (which actually ended up being a kookville ride). I was up and the wave was about to pass me by so I leaned in/down and made the drop. I'm starting my bottom turn and my back leg slips off the board. My knee crashes the board then my body. I was done. I gotta make sure to wax up the board before next session. Having seen me out there you woulda thought I had never surfed before

DLS

Finally day light savings is back. Without it, there wouldn't have been a session tonight. We startled out at the Cliff. It looked like sweet potatoes. Unfortunately there was no getting out. Packed our gear up and hit 11th. I hit the drop, did a bottom turn, a cutback, another bottom turn, and then a kick out. I have never done so much on a wave. Definitely my best yet. Year Four is looking promising!!!

This will give you an idea of what a cutback is
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9askal--IL8

Happy Anniversary To Me

Ah--to be young again

So today marks the 3rd anniversary of my first wave. Went to Pine Point. That was the only place to go. The wind was so strong everywhere--even there, but Pine Point is somewhat protected. I tried paddling out and was about to give up as I was exhausted. Then I saw a shortboarder go out so I decided to give it another shot. If he can make it out, so can I. Finally got out and had to rest for a while (BWD only longboarder out there--much more difficult to get out on a longboard). After bobbing in big waves for a while (and rested) I gave it a go. It was so windy that I was getting sprayed in the eyes as I paddled for the wave. I popped up and was getting sprayed/pelted even more. I dropped down--not in, but literally down--liking free-falling 6 feet. I couldn't see at all and I landed at the bottom of the wave and wiped out.  After turtling 3 or 4 more times outside, I decide to ride some white water in. Just like my first time.

Guess Who's Back...

Guess who's back, back again, Big Wave's back, tell a friend,guess who's back. Finally caught a wave. Did a nice bottom turn where my back hand was dragging the face. On another I did a baby cutback--nothing special but still cool.  Then Go Pro Glenn caught a sweet ride

Stink Pipe

Glenn's been scoping out this wave for a long time. I don't think anyone has ever surfed it so it is his break. I mean he checks it out all the time so I said, "Let's Hit It." We got in the water. Wow did it smell. Upon return, I told Glenn we should call it waste water. He didn't like that so I suggested, stink pipe, shit hole, or cesspool. He said no to all of the above. All I know is that I was careful not to take in water, turtle roll or anything. This place smelled bad. The waves were great though.  All in all it's Glenn's spot so I guess he can name it. My vote is for stink pipe.

"What's Goin' On"

East Coast Chop today.  Running around in circles in my head. No luck again today. Started to drop with a scootch stance and notta. Just ain't happening for Big Wave. Picked the wrong spot today. Higgins is hopping and I attempted the Cliff.

""So I wake in the morning and I step outside

And I take deep breath and I get real high

And I scream from the top of my lungs

What's goin' on"