Happy Anniversary To Me

Ah--to be young again

So today marks the 3rd anniversary of my first wave. Went to Pine Point. That was the only place to go. The wind was so strong everywhere--even there, but Pine Point is somewhat protected. I tried paddling out and was about to give up as I was exhausted. Then I saw a shortboarder go out so I decided to give it another shot. If he can make it out, so can I. Finally got out and had to rest for a while (BWD only longboarder out there--much more difficult to get out on a longboard). After bobbing in big waves for a while (and rested) I gave it a go. It was so windy that I was getting sprayed in the eyes as I paddled for the wave. I popped up and was getting sprayed/pelted even more. I dropped down--not in, but literally down--liking free-falling 6 feet. I couldn't see at all and I landed at the bottom of the wave and wiped out.  After turtling 3 or 4 more times outside, I decide to ride some white water in. Just like my first time.