Bollocks

Glenn made a bee-line out to the break--no sweat. About an hour later, I think, I kinda-sorta got out there, but not really. I was sitting, waiting, getting crashed, pummeled, and abused. Finally, I had enough and decided it was time to come in. Plus is was overcast, grey water, seagulls were swarming overhead--a little scary. A wave was reforming. This was my opportunity (which actually ended up being a kookville ride). I was up and the wave was about to pass me by so I leaned in/down and made the drop. I'm starting my bottom turn and my back leg slips off the board. My knee crashes the board then my body. I was done. I gotta make sure to wax up the board before next session. Having seen me out there you woulda thought I had never surfed before