Practice, Practice & More Practice

The last two days were bad. Now reduced to one board I need a lot of practice. There were killer waves two days ago, but I was just in the way. It felt like the beginning. A guy was up and I had to paddle around him to get out of the way (did good though). On another it was a party wave...one guy going right, one left and I had to part the Red Sea. Like I said I was just in the way. A guy was rocking a wave headed straight for my floating board...I couldn't find my leash to yank it out of the way. Fortunately I found it at the last second before he would have crashed my board hard....No one likes a kook out there. The only redeeming thing is I did all the right things to avoid catastrophe. But at some point you have to just get lost.

Yesterday (again) I did nothing, but... I think I finally found the sweet spot on my green board and had a lot of paddling practice as there was nothing for me to attempt. Glenn got some good waves, BWD got some good practice.